Another fine 1982, now very much at the moment to drink, showing beautiful balance and character. Classic tertiary notes of leather, undergrowth, truffle, iron filings, smoked blackberries, really a delicous wine with aromatics that rise out of the glass. This has stayed at this level for the past few years, and is likely to continue to do so for another five to 10 years before slowly unwinding. Harvest September 16 to 23. A touch of new oak was being used for ageing at this point, maybe 15%. Raoul Blondin cellar master. 94 Jane Anson MW